What is it like, living in Switzerland during Winter?
Hello!
Along with the seasons changing comes the inevitable unpredictability of the UK weather. We have just had storm Bert. Bert was a bit bonkers. Bert also caused havoc to travel and is responsible for my broken umbrella.
Admittedly, the UK climate is still something I am getting used to having lived for 5 years in the Snowy Alps, 1500m above sea level.
For those of you new to me or my blog posts, I used to live in Valais in Switzerland. Some of the most remarkable years of my life, and certainly different from the city dwelling that I do now (although, I still make any excuse to get out there as often as possible!).
This time of year, as the colder, shorter days draw in, it is interesting to make comparisons to how different winters can be. What I could be assured of in Switzerland, was the regularity of snowfall. Whether it arrived a little late, or left a little early (and the concerns that brings with the warming world), it would at some point, most definitely, snow.
It sounds a dream, to live in a ski-resort, and I won’t lie - it was! But also, along with snow-topped mountains, frozen lakes, hot-chocolate and fondue, were some realities that would require annual consideration and preparation. So here are some of the pros and cons of living up a mountain, in winter.
One of my regular running routes
Climbing the hill, ski touring
It looks beautiful.
There is no denying this. Waking up to the stark, fresh winter landscapes made the world look draped in white satin. The cold crisp air, the crunching underfoot - picture postcard paradise. Adapting to UK winters this side of the channel requires layering, a sturdy umbrella and a stoic attitude.
Swiss winters are the annual pilgrimage to Narnia. And you never get bored of it.
Views from a local path
You need to think ahead with transport.
Changes in the conditions on the roads means forward planning between summer and winter tyres, and in some areas up high, a steadfast calmness on more windy mountain roads. Ice could at times make even walking treacherous.
But for getting around, thankfully, Switzerland has got public transport covered (not once in 5 years, did I need to search the equivalent words for “Delay Repay” for example).
SBB train and bus service is one company that covers Switzerland in its entirety, and it is not fazed by changes in weather nor altitude. Public transport is also one of the most economical aspects of Switzerland, with an annual pass offering significant discounts per journey, effectively paying for itself within only a few trips.
To give an idea of how efficient Swiss Travel is, in the entire time of living in Switzerland, I did not own a car - I did not feel the need to, even popping across the border to Italy or France. And this is despite living 1500m up a mountain.
Expect the expenditure.
Whilst travel is inexpensive, just about everything else is.
Infamous Chocolat Chaud, Taillens Bakery. Frankly worth the money.
I write this with an expression of amusement, but this fact will also be no surprise to you. No doubt, Switzerland is not a country where it is easy to be thrifty, and the winter months bring additional spending. As a country, it has it’s “hotspots” for expenditure, heating and food being one of them (although interestingly, buying electronics is less so). The Swiss Co-op is the UK’s equivalent of Waitrose and weekly shops would require some strategy (I learnt the hard way to not browse the aisles whilst hungry).
Stocking your freezer up, looking for “own brand” in supermarkets and avoiding too many splurges in the charcuterie section is beneficial, as well as curbing the amount of mid-piste coffee and Hot Choc stops out on the slopes. It will never be cheap-living, but the less you can get drawn into “tourist traps”, the better (plus you can even make a fondue at home).
Skiers heaven, but what do the runners do?
This particular local path offers jaw dropping views from Lens Valais, to Barrage du Tseuzier
Living in a ski-resort meant a lot of time spent on two planks. Whether I was skiing with students as part of my job, skiing with friends or training for the summer by ski-touring up the slopes, this sport is at the heart of winter and a big reason to base oneself here. Which is why it can feel a bit isolating if you are not a skiier, or not such a fan of the winter sports.
Skiing in Crans Montana
Or is it?
Towards the final couple of years, I found myself heading further down the mountain to access runnable trails, as well as entering a winter race or two on foot in the mountains. Running on snow can be a great training tool due to the extra resistance underfoot, and for those that do not ski, (or run) there are options such as Snow Shoeing. In my final year in Switzerland, I barely skied at all, and yet was still outdoors most of the time in my training for the Eiger 50km in the Summer.
Whilst Ski-Touring or “skinning” was my main preferece for training on skis (where you apply “skins” to the bottom of each ski and cross train up hill) I also began to enjoy Cross Country Skiing, which can be a great option for those who want to enjoy the fitness aspect without the faff of alpine slalom.
My memories of skiing however, whether on or off the piste, are some of my fondest moments of nostalgia, and Switzerland no doubt offers some of the best skiing in Europe.
Backcountry skiing
Should you go?
It is not so easy, Post-Brexit, to up sticks and head Swiss-side to live, that is for sure. Personally, it is also a place that I adore most in summer, so I am very happy to visit as much as I can when it gets warmer (a post about some of the best trails for running is in the pipeline!).
But, it is a place that you should visit, whether runner, skier, or simply someone who wishes to gain the perspective you feel when moseying around a mountain, and it sure is beautiful this time of year.
Christmas ski trip, anyone?
